GY6 150cc Ignition Troubleshooting Guide: No Spark?

 
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Electrical diagram for reference.  Most GY6 ignition systems work the same as shown in this illustration.

Yerf Dog GX150 Wiring DiagramThe 150cc GY6 ignition system is fairly easy to troubleshoot in the case of malfunction. There are 4 major components that work together to produce spark, if any of these are defective spark will be lost. What we will be doing here is troubleshooting these ignition parts starting at the source, and working towards the spark plug.

Ignition energy travels along the following path starting at the stator:

  1. Stator (6th winding and trigger pickup module)
  2. CDI unit
  3. Ignition coil
  4. Spark plug

To diagnose your ignition system, you will need to do each of these steps in sequence. Start with Step #1 and work through this guide completely.

This guide was originally written for the Yerf-Dog GX150, but has been re-written to cover almost any of the 150cc buggies, scooters, or ATV’s with the standard “AC” CDI setup.


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GET PREPARED: BYPASS YOUR SWITCHES

A very common cause of no spark is a defective ignition or kill switch. Before beginning to troubleshoot ignition problems, it is best to bypass the switches. Some GY6 vehicles like the Yerf Dog GX150 have only one switch, but most others have two. The bypass process is the same.

Bypassing the switches

  1. Take a look at the pinout diagram above.
  2. Create a jumper wire from pin #4 directly to a good grounding spot on the engine.
  3. Remove the #5 wire from the CDI plug at the harness. This can be done with a sharp narrow tool like an ice pick or stiff paper clip. Looking from the front of the plug, you will see small metal tabs on each pin which secure them to the plug. Push the tab down and the pin will release. Be careful not to break the plug or pin.

STEP 1: STATOR

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Note the wrapped ignition winding, and trigger module

Ignition Winding:
Depending on your stator type, you have either 6, 8, or 11 windings. Of these windings, one is dedicated to supplying the CDI with ignition power. This winding is usually wrapped in white cloth material and sealed over with clear epoxy.

Trigger pickup:
A simple type of crankshaft position sensor. Sends a signal to the CDI to let it know when to send fire to the plug.

Troubleshooting the Stator:

  1. Set your multimeter to read in VOLTS “AC”.
  2. Locate and disconnect the Black/Red and Blue/Yellow wires coming from the stator, where they plug into the main engine harness. (These are both bullet-style connectors)
  3. While cranking the engine, use a multimeter to check for voltage coming from the Red/Black (CDI power wire) and the Blue/Yellow (trigger wire) coming from stator. Place the black lead of multimeter on a metal surface of the engine while using the red lead on the tips of the wires.
  4. There should be between 20vAC ~ 100vAC coming from the CDI power wire (Black/Red), although much lower voltages will still be able to produce spark.
  5. There should be at least 0.05vAC coming from the trigger wire (Blue/Yellow).
  6. Write the voltages down and continue to the next step.

Minimum values:
Stator output: 20vAC minimum
Trigger output: 0.01vAC minimum


STEP 2: THE CDI UNIT

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Typical GY6 CDI Box

The CDI Unit is powered by the AC current coming from the wrapped stator winding. This current is stored in a capacitor within the CDI unit. When a signal is received by the trigger pickup passing over the flywheel magnet, the CDI will discharge the stored energy into the wires leading to the ignition coil.

Troubleshooting the CDI:

  1. Ensure your multimeter is set to read in VOLTS “AC”.
  2. Just like before: while cranking the engine, use a multimeter to check for voltage at the two primary wires of the ignition coil. Connect your back multimeter lead to the black ground wire at the coil, and with the red lead to the lighter color wire (usually blue or purple, but it varies). At this step we are checking to see exactly what the CDI is outputting. Write the voltages down and continue to the next step.

Minimum values:
CDI output: Can be 5% to 30% less than the output from the stator. The minimum we have seen working is around 18vAC.


STEP 3: THE IGNITION COIL

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Black is neutral, green is input from the CDI

The function of the ignition coil is to multiply the voltage of the power supplied from the CDI, and to send the multiplied power to the spark plug.

Troubleshooting the Ignition Coil:
Check for 0.1 ohm ~ 1.0 ohm across the two primary coil terminals. This isn’t exactly definitive, as we have seen working coils with 0.0ohms resistance. The best way to tell if the coil is bad is to perform steps the steps above. If there is still no spark, the coil is likely bad.


 STEP 4: SPARK PLUG

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Check for proper plug gap!

The plug is very rarely the cause of no spark on the GY6. If the plug is fouled or cracked it may not spark. Ensure that the spark plug is gapped properly.Recommended spark plug gap: 0.6mm ~ 0.7mm (0.23″ ~ 0.27″)


GY6 Electrical Parts with Warranty

If you’re in need of one of the electrical parts above, we carry them here.  Be sure to add which model you own in the “Tell us what you ride!” box, if it is Verified Fit, the electrical part will come with a 30-day warranty.


Need help? Ask Questions or Comment below

Let us know if you need help interpreting your test results or just to let us know that our guide helped you!

73 thoughts on “GY6 150cc Ignition Troubleshooting Guide: No Spark?

  1. Terry "Terry's Small Engine Repair"

    stator :blk/red=53.4 vac. blue/yellow=0.149 vac.

    coil primary wires=0.3 ohms

    cdi to primary wires at coil= 0.00 vac
    have replaced cdi but no change.
    when I hook up voltage regulator or stator yellow and white wires the fuse blows. This quad arrived at my shop blowing fuses as soon as battery hooked up.
    Appreciate any help, way too many hours invested in this job. Thanks, Terry

    • Buggy Depot

      Try taking a look at the CDI power pin (#6). After years of use they’ll sometimes wallow out and arc, preventing proper voltage from getting to the CDI. We have replacement CDI pins and connectors if this ends up being the cause.

      CDI Connection Kit (Pigtail)
      https://www.buggydepot.com/product/404/cdi-connection-kit-pigtail.html

    • Buggy Depot

      The fuse blowing problem is most likely related to the regulator rectifier and also likely a separate issue from what is preventing spark. What resistance are you seeing between the the red wire and the others (yellow, then white, then black)?

    • Victor

      Hola Terry.
      Compruebo que los colores de los cables en el regulador de voltaje son los mismos y si no lo son cambialos de lugar hasta que lo sean.

  2. Peter Hay

    I am pulling my hair out with a no spark problem. I have replaced the CDI with the better one and motor ran ok for about 4 starts. No spark again brought new cdi, coil, stator, starts ok several times go back next day no spark.
    brought new cdi basic model, regulator ,coil, measured all AC voltages 80v from stator out put, 0.3v from stator trigger, 30v from cdi out to coil. All good at this point, connect the coil no spark and no voltage to coil. Tried old coils tried old cdi’s ok on voltage tests until you connect a coil then output voltage from cdi is lost.
    Re checked the wiring which had not been altered from when it did run to find the earth wire was on pin 3 instead of pin 4 so change this. Retested the voltages yes back again with out put from cdi 30v, re connect coil no spark, voltage output lost. Helpppppppppppppppppppppppp

    • Buggy Depot

      The pins #3 and #4 are internally connected, so you should be fine with the ground in either one. Have you removed pin #5 (Kill Line) from the CDI plug while testing? The #5 pin can complicate testing to it’s best to remove it temporarily.

    • Jr

      Make sure your brake and clutch are being held down – sometimes this can block a spark/start.

  3. Peter Hay

    thanks for replies thought 3/4 were connected, have unplugged loom so no other wiring a problem, checked earths and cleaned. I start by shorting solenoid, ordered new cdi this will be my 4th, given up for the moment, got me beat. cheers Peter

    • Peter Hay

      Back with a fresh approach today, the Gods are with me. I disconnected the regulator tested all voltages yes there back. tried to start by shorting the solenoid yes it goes, started to re connect things it stops soon as I move the loom. Found the problem. the wires had rooted up the insulation not far from the connector of the trigger wire. Makes sense now as testing with a digital voltmeter little to no current is drawn but soon as I connected the coil and drew current the lead would go open circuit and stay that way until next day when all cooled and probably one hair wire made contact. Cut back the wire, new connectors all wiring re connected runs like a beauty. yes the gods were on my side today, one to put in your dairy. Meggering out the individual wires say on 500v would have shown this and also a good way to check if your earth is good and not corroded, that’s if you have access to a megger or electrician friend. cheers Peter

  4. Nathan

    We have replaced the cdi, stator, pick up, coil,
    And replaced ALL the pin connectors .
    I get correct ac voltage at cdi power, trigger wire, and cdi output.
    But when I hook up the coil there is no longer
    Any output from cdi, and no spark.
    Replaced the cool twice, still same problem
    Replaced cdi with 2nd new one, still same
    Output ac voltage from cdi to coil peaks at 50
    Then drops down. Is it supposed to maintain voltage?
    Why no spark??? Ahhhhhhhh
    Everything is working according to your flow chart, (thank you btw),
    Except no spark.
    Replaced coil.
    Still, nada.
    Help!?

    Thank you.

  5. Larry Rodeheaver

    Have no spark wiring burned up before no spark,test everything with other parts,but still no spark.What could be wrong with it?
    How can I obtain a book for parts?

    • Buggy Depot

      Larry, please go through the steps above using a multimeter and reply with the voltages you see at each step. That will give me the information I need to be able to help.

      For a complete catalog of parts, see our webstore.

  6. James Roden

    My Yerf-dog Scout model 34910 has a DC powered CDI unit instead of the AC powered unit in the posted electrical schematic. Is there a schematic available for the model I have? I also need the expected output voltages for this unit. Thanks, J. Roden

  7. Bob Hill

    Fuse blows. Replaced rectifier. How do you check for shorts?

    • Buggy Depot

      Shorts through the rectifier on these models aren’t very common; the problem is likely a wire connection having unraveled and is now touching a metal surface.

      I need a bit more information to be able to help.

      1. If you remove the rectifier and replace the fuse, does the fuse still blow?
      2. When does the fuse blow? (e.g. when you turn the key, or as soon as the rectifier is connected, etc)

      Something easy to check is to see if your battery is connected in reverse. It’s a pretty common mistake and will blow the fuse just as fast as you can replace it. Admittedly, I’ve reversed the leads more than once before. If this is the case, there will be no permanent damage. Correct the leads and replace the fuse and you should be good to go.

  8. Bill

    Hi I have a no spark on my crossfire 150r so I did your guide on trouble shooting online . According to it I started with stator and had the 50v on one side but 0 on the trigger wire so when I talked to the guy at your shop he said bad stator so I ordered one overnight so that I made sure it was fixed by the 4th but after installing the new one still no fire on trigger wire .I have double checked the switch and the kill switch ..now what …Help
    Thanks Bill

    • Buggy Depot

      Bill, are you using a digital multimeter to test your stator, or is it an analog type (with needle)? I ask because if you are using an analog type, the very small amount of voltage from the trigger wire may not be noticeable. The stator test might appear to be reading 0v, but in reality the trigger module could be fine.

      The reason this is the case is because the trigger wire sends a burst of voltage once per RPM that is only 10ms in duration (10 one-thousandths of a second). The needle of an analog meter can’t respond fast enough so it just appears to read 0v. Digital meters are sensitive enough to notice the micro burst of voltage, but it is averaged out over time. So you end up with a reading of around 0.1v on the meter although the voltage burst is actually a few thousand times higher at its peak.

      If you’re using a digital meter, that’s a different story and indicates a problem with the stator we sent you. Please reply and we’ll go from there.

  9. gerald

    I have a 150 cc diamo trace. No spark I replace the coil cdi and stator with no difference. The numbers I have using the pin diagram are # 6 6,0v, # 5 6.0v, # 2 .03v, #1 0.v these numbers were before I change out the parts. Now I am getting #6 16v, #5 16v, # 2 0.2v #1 0.0v Please help I don’t know what to do now!!!

    • Buggy Depot

      Gerald,
      Your two problem areas seem to be pins 1 and 6. From your numbers, it appears that your original stator was bad. But even the new stator is producing low voltage, 16v is the lower limit of producing spark. Is your battery fully charged? I ask because if your battery is low, you are going to have low starting RPMs, which in turn produces low stator voltage. Try charging your battery overnight on a trickle charger (1 to 1.5 amps) and take another reading.

      Now about the 0v on pin 1, that will prevent your spark for sure. I recommend this:

      1. Read the comment above yours about how the trigger wire/circuit works.
      2. Disconnect the blue/white wire from the stator.
      3. Use your multimeter to take a reading directly from this wire, stator side.
      4. Reply here with your new readings.

  10. James McQuiniff

    I have a Hammerhead Gts 150. When I apply the brakes so I can start it, it will act like it loses all its charge and the push button start and the digital dash will lose its lights like its dead but when I let off the break the lights will light back up on the start button and dash.

    • Buggy Depot

      It sounds as if you have a short in the wiring harness. The switch is fine. Are you familiar with how to use a multimeter? If not, let me know. If so, see below:

      1. Turn your key to the on position.

      2. Check which post and wire of your brake switch has constant 12v with the key ON, this is your power lead.

      3. What we’re really after is the other lead of brake switch, mark it. From here on we’ll be focusing on this marked lead, and ignoring the power lead

      4. Set your multimeter to read resistance (ohms). Check the marked lead for resistance to ground. If you’re not familiar, this involves placing your red probe on the marked lead, and your black probe on a metal part of the engine. The valve cover is best. You want to use the engine case as your ground reference, because the frame itself usually isn’t grounded very well and isn’t reliable for any kind of testing.

      Let me know your resistance number, and we’ll move on to the next step.

  11. Chris

    Hey all… Travis told me to post my results here. Stator seems to test fine. Blue/yellow is .1, black/red is 134vac.
    Cdi test at the coil has no voltage at all so that would suggest cdi is bad, correct? I stopped the tests there since there’s no voltage passing the cdi.
    Also, I get no power on my ignition switch. No headlights, brake lights or anything. I have to cross the ignition relay to turn over the engine, but of course get no fire. Could my ignition switch be bad?

    • Buggy Depot

      Hi Chris,
      You’re right, your stator seems healthy. Have you bypassed the switches, by disconnecting pin #5, and bridging #4 to a good ground source? If so, I agree that it sounds like the CDI is bad.

      • Chris Laymon

        Yes, I did that. Ok, I’ll go ahead and order a new CDI. Thanks!

      • Chris Laymon

        Thanks for the confirmation. Yes, I bypassed the switches and grounded pin 5. What about the ignition switch (key) not working? Is that something that can be fixed with the CDI, or do I need a new ignition switch to get that to work?

        • Buggy Depot

          Thanks Chris. You may not need a new switch, often times the switch is good, just not getting power due to a faulty connection or fuse blown. Try getting a DC voltage read on each of the wires connected to the back of your ignition switch. They’re usually marked with “I, II, III” for 1, 2, and 3. You’ll want to leave the engine off without cranking for this test. Let me know what you get, that info should reveal if the switch is bad or not.

  12. ryan

    I have a coolsport 250, Im getting fire all the way out the spark plug wire but cant get any spark out of the plug. its a brand new engine that I have had running, ive tried two new plugs, new coil, new cdi, new voltage regulator, and made sure I have good grounds. what can be making my coil fire but not allowing the spark plug to spark?

    • Buggy Depot

      Hi Ryan,
      I’m not familiar with the ignition system on 250cc class buggies. But I may be able to be of some help.

      What is your voltage at the coil primary(the hookup leads on the coil) while cranking?

      Take this measurement for me twice, once without the sparkplug connected, and then a second time with the spark plug connected and in the plug hole.

  13. George Fitzgerald

    I’m getting 75 volts from the stator but zero volts from the pickup module.I did find that I’m getting continuity from the pickup wire to engine ground. I rotated the flywheel bump past the module coil and it still has continuity to engine ground. I unbolted the module from the engine block and there’s continuity between the wire and the module base. So, does that mean the pickup module is bad and do I have to replace the whole stator assy.?

    • Buggy Depot

      Continuity is normal through the pickup module. The tab is the ground side of the module. Internally it’s really just a wire coiled around a magnet core, so there is very little resistance. Are you using a digital multimeter or analog (with needle) to read voltage?

      • George Fitzgerald

        I am using a digital multimeter. New stator, cdi,coil,regulator. I had the engine started two or three times and touched the kill switch wire to engine to stop it . However the last time I did this I inadvertently touched the wire to the frame to kill the engine. Haven’t had any spark since. Any ideas on this? Thank you for your help.

        • Buggy Depot

          Although the frame usually isn’t a good ground, killing spark through that way shouldn’t have damaged the ignition system. Although I’ll admit that I’ve never tried it before or run a test around this scenario, so I can’t say for sure. The 0v on the trigger wire does seem to be the problem though.

  14. Kevin

    Hammerhead twister 150. Starts right up but blows main fuse after about 30-60 seconds of run time. Regulator rectifier gets warm/hot to touch in this 30-60 second period. Buggy continues to run once fuse is blown, but lights etc… no longer work.

    • Buggy Depot

      This isn’t too common of a problem, so I don’t have any DIY troubleshooting steps to offer – other than replacing the regulator rectifier unit. If you’d like to send your rectifier in first I’d be glad to test it for you so you’ll know its condition before investing money in parts.

      Questions:
      1. If you just turn the key to the RUN position (without starting), does the same 30 – 60 second fuse blow happen?

      2. What model number and year (if you know) is your Twister Hammerhead? Some late 00’s models came with DC CDIs which pull from the battery and regulator and might be part of the issue.

      • Kevin

        Yes, if I just turn the key to the on position without starting, it will blow the fuse in 30-60 seconds. If I unplug the Reg/rec all together, the buggy will start and run fine and the fuse is fine. As soon as I plug the reg/rec back in, the fuse starts to get warm and will blow.

        I’ve ordered a new reg/rec and it should be here to day. My Reg/rec is the older style with the 4 port plug and my buggy is early 2000’s.

        Thanks a bunch for your help and comments. It is appreciated.
        Kevin

  15. Dustin

    Ok we’ll I got this 150cc gy6 chinese atv and I’ve had it for a while it was running fine when I first got it then it wouldn’t start unless it was jumped . It wouldn’t start automatically like it should. So it sat in my garage for about two years and now it won’t start. it turns but no start. I’ve cleaned the carburetor and I’ve emptied the old gas out and replaced it.the spark plug seems to be good. When I plug up the battery it automatically tries to start but won’t I don’t know why this is please help

  16. Dustin

    I’ve been working on my atv since last night and I’ve pretty much taken all the electrical wiring Cdi the battery all apart and put it back together and the same thing when I connect the two ends on the starter solenoid it attempts to start but does not someone help

  17. Gary Simpson

    I followed your troble shoot guide for the no spark problem. Oh I have a Baja 150 with a Howhit motor.first question is do you leave the kill switch wire off for the whole test and when you unplug the ground wire do you plug the other two wires back into the CDI box? Next I ran the test with # 5 wire off and # 4 for the stator readings are blue yellow wire .196v red and black 61.1v. Pluged the # 5 wire in for the CDI frist reading 1.050 unpluged 42.6. Coil test .7 omi. I still don’t have spark HELP

  18. bobbie

    i need help we can not get no spark to our fox helix 150cc we put all new parts and new wire harness and new key switch on it and still no spark from the plug we don’t know nothing else to do we also have a black/red wire from the stator and no were to plug it in to there nothing else i can do for it if you could write me back thank you so much we run out of stuff its could be

  19. Raddish

    Hi Folks, I have a variation of this problem.

    Buggy starts and idles fine. However, above idle, it misses and makes no power.
    Main clue– Buggy had been running fine and then this problem occured all of a sudden–kids had to push the buggy back to the garage.
    Not a fuel or carb issue–took it apart and was whistle clean–sprayed jets out with cleaner anyway. Fresh gas. Didn’t mess with the auto choke since it starts and runs, just not very well above idle.

    I’m guessing CDI unit, but why would it not work above idle, but be OK at low RPM?

    Thanks!

    Raddish

  20. Andrew

    Hi, I just brought home a GY6 powered scooter (velocity mp150-7) with an ignition problem (no spark). It was some one else’s project that they gave up on. They replaced the pick up, the coil and the cdi unit.

    I performed the tests as you outlined.
    The stator ignition coil puts out about 70 VAC.
    The pickup puts out 2.2 VAC.
    Those sound good.
    The coil reading was .003 VAC. That sounds bad.

    One other thing, the first time that I tested the stator ignition coil, it was still connected to the cdi unit, and the VAC reading was much lower, is that normal?

  21. Elton

    Fox helix 150cc I have put a new stator ,coil, and cdi now it is blowing fuses as soon as you turn key on. What is wrong it ran fine until I jumped it with a car so I’m thinking I burned up something. Any recommendations?

  22. shouma

    i have a carter talon 150cc. and i have no spark. seems that is comon on these chineese buggys.
    i replaced the cdi, coil, stator, rectifire, ignition switch. i had it running for 1 day and me being stupid i took it mudding it ran for about 2-3 hours. then it turned off . (present) i have a new stator,coil,spark plug, cdi,rectifire. abd i have no spark. i havent replaced the ignition switch which i think can be the problem. does anyone know how i can test it? it has 3 wires white, gree, and red.

  23. rondsmith50

    I have a tank urban racer de 150 gy6 I notice the stator is bad. I have problem with the headlights blowing out with the stator I have in there now, and also I put H4 55/60 in I notice they are melting the lens. the rear running lights are very dim and the indicator lights are blown. Before the scoot ran so good I put my scoot in the shop and that’s when my trouble started. They cut the coil wire from the wiring harness that go to the cdi, and ran them straight to the cdi. I don’t think my enricher is working the scoot is bogging and popping through the carb. Can you help thank.

  24. Robert kint

    Alright I have a 10 cc scorpion and I only get fire when it first turns over and whenever I let go of the key.I’ve gotten a new cdi but could it still be the cdi?

    • Buggy Depot

      Sounds like a bad starter/ignition switch. The switch passes upwards of 120vAC, so the internal connections become arced over time of cycling on and off. When this happens, it prevents spark. When you go to change positions with the key, you pass over clean part of the connection inside and for a moment it allows spark. Check for continuity along your ignition switch to confirm this.

  25. Marsharo

    Tao Tao AT125-F ATV. I have replaced the CDI on this unit 3 times. it starts and runs for about 10 minutes then dies and i lose all spark. Originally I was told I had a bad ground in the system. Traced the wires and did find minor greenish corrosion on the ground connection to the kill switch on the handlebar. I cleaned this off, used dielectric grease and reconnected. replaced the AC CDI and rode for 5-7 minutes then it died again.

    – Battery is fully charged
    – turns over easily
    – no spark at the plug when grounded against the motor

    i was told the charging system could be doing this. I don’t see that in your troubleshooting. is that a myth?

    I just found this troubleshooting guide and will go through it step by step this weekend. but wanted to get some feedback if any of the steps are avoidable due to the symptoms.

    • Marsharo

      Please respond!

      Stator checks… CDI power appears to be okay. No reading on trigger. Although, my stator wire bundle is 100% within a block – I have no bullet style plugs. Also, I have no blue/yellow wire. I have blue/white or solid yellow. When i opened up the case, despite the seal, the timing chain showed signs of corrosion. is the stator capable of getting wet? If I replace the CDI it runs for about 7-10 minutes. is it fried or only more sensitive to lower voltages?

      This entire problem began 15 minutes after my son washed his ATV.

      • Buggy Depot

        Hi Marsharo,
        The charging and ignition systems are separate, although I have seen some cases of a bad rectifier inexplicably preventing spark. To eliminate this as a possibility, disconnect the rectifier.

        Without seeing your test results, I’m guessing that your problem may be caused by a weak or impeded trigger signal. Weak trigger has been shown to cause a heat buildup inside of the CDI. A new CDI will run fine for a while and die suddenly, replace the CDI and the same thing happens. Usually leaves a pea-sized bump mark in the back of the CDI casing where the internal capacitor is located.

        • Marsharo

          Thanks for the reply. The only test results I can give you off the stator; I am not sure i trust but…
          CDI power 12-15v fluctuates
          Trigger – I can’t get any readings. I have tried multiple wires in the bundle but no luck.

          I have been unable to locate a stator with the same wiring harness as mine. I have attached a picture.

  26. auston

    I have a 150cc dune buggie when I try to start it it turns over but doesn’t start what is the problem

    • Buggy Depot

      Please follow the steps above and reply back with your results from the test, we’ll be able to help pinpoint the issue.

  27. blair

    I NEED HELP!! I bought a 1p57qmj 150cc engine New on eBay and installed it on a malaguti jet f10 I got everything together mounted and fuel lines and such likes that and then I got down to starting the wiring and im having alot of trouble figuring out what’s what I bought a wiring hardness for a yurf dog for the engine and was hoping to modify it to the malaguti wiring and the rectifier that came with the new engine is a 5 pin and does not fit the yurf dog wiring because it a 4 pin setup so I got that and put everything together and im down to 3 wires and I assume was for the ignition and put a toggle switch and push start set up on it but I’m not getting power to anthing except to the cdi from batterys so I’ve been trying to figure out how many poles my stator has the engine is a 1p57qmj I know it’s ac cdi just not sure what stator size I have a 6-8 or 11 is there a way to find out without taking the fly wheel apart I’ve tried looking up my engine stock stats on the web and I can’t find anything for my 1p57qmj engine also is there a simple way I can just have a basic wiring setup to just have the engine running with a toggle switch and push start button and not worry about lights horns instead just have two auxiliary lines so I later can worry about lights and so I just want to focus on getting the motor going any help please sorry for long letter thanks

    • Buggy Depot

      1. Which wires are left over? If you could upload pictures of your progress that would help.

      2. Try contacting the seller of your engine to see which type of stator came with that engine, hopefully they will be able to tell you. If not, reply back here and I’ll help work out which version you have.

      3. The ignition system should all plug in for your scooter without having to modify anything. Plug in the stator, CDI, ignition coil, solenoid, and starter switch and you should be able to start the engine. Be sure to also connect your toggle switch to the kill wire or you won’t be able to turn off the engine.

      • blair

        No the wires are all different my malaguti f10 had a 50cc minerali engine it’s an italian scooter and the motor died so I wanted to upgrade and swap engine with the 150cc China engine and the seller on eBay that sold me the motor doesn’t have any idea about anything he’s selling he’s just sells them kinda stupid if you ask me how can you expect to do business if you don’t know your own product well anyways since I’m doing this swap the wires are all different so that’s why I had to buy a turf dog wiring harness I think I might not have the full wiring harness because I got the rectifier,cdi,engine,ignition coil,starter, and starter solenoid all connected and have on one end 3 wires that’s has female plug on it and in the middle I have two wire separated that have plugs on it like you see on the back of a speaker so I figured that the speaker plugs were for the horn or something like that and the 3 wire plug I figured was where the ignition switch goes so I splice those wire and connect them to a toggle switch and push start button I did all this setup based on several similar wiring diagrams I’m posting this on a kindle fire I don’t have a computer but I’ll see if I can find away to upload some pictures soon let me know if you need more info thanks

  28. Blair

    I’m sure I have everything connected right except for the purple and black wires and those three wires I thought might be for ignition so I’m thinking I’m missing something like a whole mother wiring system or something I don’t know lol I’m confusing myself the more I think about it hope these pictures help and that I explained it a little better sorry for the messy wires didn’t want to organize it till I had it all done hope you can figure it out thanks

  29. Zack

    I recently replaced the Stator CDI and Coil and still no spark. I used the multimeter at the CDI power from Stator and test 6~7V. Triple checked the stator and can’t see an issue. I have a Subaru Robins engine that runs great and I got the same output when I tested it. So assumed this is at least enough to get spark, if not run lights..
    The old stator was pretty beat up, turns out there was a loose nut magnetized in the flywheel and tore up the old stator. The new one is a 6 pole setup just like the previous. Too small? Obviously the 6 pole worked originally before I bought it but then was damaged before I got it. I have nothing hooked up besides the CDI and coil.
    I then checked the CDI to ignition coil positive and get nothing at all. Tried it with the new CDI and the old CDI. Same both. Pulling my hair out.

    • Zack

      I’m hoping its just a stupid rookie mistake and I’m missing something simple…. HELP!
      Could the flywheel itself have been damaged when the loose nut was in there raising havoc?

  30. Terry

    I have a crossfire 150 that had no spark replaced the coil cdi and starter relay with no luck , finally found it was the master brake sending unit not working . connected both wires together and started right away. Having problems with brakes so am waiting to replace brake caliber when it becomes available.

  31. William Humble

    PLEASE HELP.
    Hi, I’ve got a Twister Hammerhead 150cc. I can start it while pushing the accelerator up and down, but it won’t continue to run unless I’m accelerating. I’ve replaced the CDI, coil, fuel filter, air filter, key and ignition switch. Also taken the bowl off the carburetor and cleaned the jets out. Have also checked fly wheel and stator, still won’t run..

    • Buggy Depot

      William, have you taken a look at your intake inlet? It’s the black boot that connects the carburetor to the engine. Usually when the engine will start but only stays running with manipulation of the throttle, the problem is due to an intake leak. Try checking the inlet boot for any cracks or dry rot. If you see any problems in the rubber it’s likely up for replacement.

  32. Bobby

    Have a hammerhead 150. With cdi plugged up I get no lights horn anything. If I jump it to bypass switches it will crank with key. I’m thinking this means a switch, correct? Shouldn’t that rule out igniton switch? Also tried cdi plugged up and kill switch jumped, no luck.

    • Buggy Depot

      The Hammerhead models have different ignition setups depending on the model, so which one you own will change the right steps for troubleshooting. Do you know which Hammerhead 150cc model do you have? If not, I can help identify it.

      • Bobby

        It is a gts150.

        • Buggy Depot

          Thanks Bobby. Which transmission do you have on your GTS150? I should have mentioned in my first reply: If your GTS150 has the Forward/Reverse transmission (no neutral), it will have the standard AC system. If it has the F/N/R trans with reverse then you have the DC ignition system. Let me know which trans you have and we’ll go from there.

          • Bobby

            F N R. I plan on getting a multi meter this weekend. So any real voltage tests will have to wait until then.

  33. Randy

    I have a 150cc GY6 ATV that is getting 30 VAC to the coil but no spark. Disconnected the kill switch t the CDI. Replaced the coil and the spark plug and still no fire. Am I missing something?

  34. Thank you for the troublshooting guide.

    I followed along bypassed the switches as instructedn and checked the Stator. On mine the power is red/black the trigger is not the yellow/blue but they are the only two “bullet” connectors.
    When cranking the AC volts are between 3 and 13. I believe it did jump to 23 once or so but mostly around 3 to 13 vac.

    Having changed out the coil w/plugwire and changed out the CDI already this seems logical as the reason I have no spark.

    What is the right Stator? I have a GY6 clone the Super-Bee.

    Thanks

  35. Ricky83

    I have a talon 125gx. I have replaced the cdi, coil, plug, stator and still no spark. I have omh all the wires to make sure no shorts. I omh the stator, getting the correct readings. I do however did not get any readings from the cdi box to the coil. but it is a brand new cdi. I do not understand why this is happening. it has drove me crazy and ready to scrap the dang thing. I have the park brake set. I have had someone holding the foot brake. still nothing. any help would be wonderful.

  36. Dustin Wheeler

    I checked my wires from the stator I have 69 volts ac. I move on to step 2 checking CDI but have no voltage at ignition coil. So this means CDI is bad right?

  37. Bruce

    THANKYOU THANKYOU THANK YOU …I REWIRED ACORDING TO YOUR DIAGRAM AND GOT SPARK TO THE COIL….NOW I AM WORKING ON GETTING IT OUT THE COIL….I HAD TO REWIRE THE GY6 …BUT SO FAR SO GOOD ….B

  38. Blair

    On the top right you see two blue wires and one black this is where I cut of the plug and added those wires for the toggle switch and push start

  39. Blair

    The purple and black wires are what I thought might be for the horn or something not sure

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