If your carburetor is feeling a little congested, we have the remedy.
Carburetor cleaning procedure
Before taking anything apart, be sure to drain the fuel from both the gas tank and the carburetor’s float bowl. You’ll find the drain tube hanging off of the very bottom (driver’s side) of the carburetor. Most 125cc – 150cc GY6 carburetors have a valve immediately next to the drain tube that can be opened with a flat-blade screwdriver.
Other setups have the valve at the tip of the drain tube. If your carburetor is aftermarket came from a lower-price source, you might not have a valve or tube at all. Be careful opening the float bowl on one of those, as gas will spill if you’re not holding it upright.
- Remove the carburetor from the engine by loosening the clamp on the intake inlet manifold. Flip it over and remove the four screws that fasten the float bowl.
- Remove the float pin, push it through using a pointed tool.
- Using a flat-blade screwdriver, remove both of the jets circled in the center. Spray carburetor cleaner through the three passages that are circled. The spray should dissolve and remove any blockages caused by old gasoline.
- Look through both jets. You should see light coming from the end of each one. The most troublesome piece is the longer pilot jet which has a very narrow internal passage. Compressed air and chemicals might not work. In that case, use a single strand of copper from an electrical wire to clean out the blockage.
For carburetors that are severely gummed up we use compressed air @ 120psi to clean the passages. In some cases it may be necessary to let it soak overnight in carburetor dip.
Note: A little gas may spill out of the carburetor’s overflow tube when you flip it over to get to the float bowl.
Taking care of your GY6 Carburetor
The small pilot jet inside of these small carburetors tends to clog if you leave gas in the carburetor without riding for 2-3 weeks. Many we talk to attribute this to ethanol content in the gasoline.
Install a manual Fuel Shutoff Valve
It’s a good idea to install a manual inline fuel shutoff valve between your tank and carburetor. After each ride, turn off the fuel valve to and let the the engine idle off of the remaining fuel in the carburetor. This should take around 2 minutes at idle. This will empty the carburetor, without the mess or hassle of draining the entire fuel system.
If you have a 5-wire ignition switch (Blade, Kinroad, Twister Hammerhead, Carter Bros., etc), be sure to come back to the kart to turn your key back to the off position, or your battery could drain. If your Kart has a 2-wire or 3-wire switches (e.g. Yerf Dog, Crossfire, etc) don’t have to worry about this.
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My solution to the problem is to install a in-line fuelcock on the fuel hose (since there is no manual fuelcock on my ride) close it, and run the engine till the carb is empty. I do this everytime I know it will be a while till my next ride. Im not sure if you guys sell these. I found mine on Ebay.
That’s a great idea. We do offer a manual inline Fuel Petcock:
http://www.buggydepot.com/product/365/fuel-petcock-inline.html
My adult jeep buggy leaks gas ,it leaks out from inside the carburetor and floods out what can I do help
Scooter gy6 150 not charging and it boggs down, the shops are trying to drain my pockits. The scooter is running very poorly im on a fix income. If you can help me that would be good.
Sure, we can help figure out what’s going on. What have the shops done so far on the scooter? That will give us a place to start.
They said my cdi was bad, then after that they said my coil was bad and spark plug.I paid $200. for nothing.Allso i notice the cut the coil wires, and put 2, yellow wires leading from the coil to the cdi,or to the stator wires. I hope this help.
I have change stator, 3 infact. I put new coil and spark plug, with the cdi, I thougt that was the problem but i had the old parts, now what had happen i road it to the Scooter shop to buy a stator, shut the scooter off thats when my problem stated. After that it would not start and driving lights, come on but go out. Its a 07 Tank urban racer 150.
I think it would be best to start by inspecting the ignition system. Please read our ignition troubleshooting guide (link below), and reply in the comments section there with the voltages you saw at each step. If it’s a spark related issue, we’ll be able to pinpoint the cause.
https://www.buggydepot.com/tech-center/gy6-150cc-ignition-troubleshooting-guide-no-spark/
The only test I did was battery, and its reading 12.99 v. Since I p/u my scooter I don’t trust it. I cant really get in to it because of where I live. IM going to try some testing and get back to you.
i have a crossfire 150r and i got the carb upgrade and now i neex to cut off some of the throttle cable or does anyone know where i can get the right part
Yes, this is a great site for information. Unfortunately, cleaning our carb didn’t help. In fact, when we pulled it off and opened it, took all of the jets out and cleaned them anyway, it was clean, but still leaks gas when we run the ATV. We have a Coolster 3150-DX2 (chinese ATV). We only had it 5 months and the carb went. We were not shutting off the stop cock for the gas when we were not running it (we did not know this that this should be done, lesson learned). The ATV sounds good when running it but gas leaks from the bottom of the carb, so we are now getting a new carb and hope this solves the problem.
Where can you get parts for the Tomberlin 150cc. I haven’t been able to find parts not sure what site to go to. Would appreciate any information.
We bought out all of Tomberlin’s inventory, and have nearly all parts available on our main site. Here are the right links:
Parts for grey Crossfire 150R:
https://www.buggydepot.com/model/15/1/tomberlin-crossfire-150r-parts.html
Parts for Yellow Crossfire 150:
https://www.buggydepot.com/model/14/1/crossfire-150-parts.html
We also carry parts for the Punisher 150cc models.
remember on the bottom of all theses carbs is a drain, ether screw or nipple cover…if the screw is not tight or the nipple cracks you will get a leek. also make sure all 3 (50cc) 4 (150cc) bowl screws are tight.
I bought my daughter a 150CC Polaris rzr copy. it has ran ok since Christmas. It was hard to start and would die when coming to a stop after warmed up. We had to hold the throttle wide open to get it to start. I hear these things are really restricted for CA. The Carb says standard of Japan on it. I tested the auto choke and it works fine. The filter was crappy and let dirt by. I hope not to much. I am fabricating and going to install a K&N filter. I need to know what size are the main jets and what would be a good size to go up to? we are at about 4000′ elevation. The carb bowl has twist off screws so I am going to drill them out. The adjustment for the carb is also blocked…..is there a way around that?
have yerf m#34911. need layout on fuel lines to carb
I just put a new throttle cable on my buggy and was driving it and ran fine then it bogged out lost power trying to troubleshoot this…but it’s a new carburetor and I didn’t have a air filter on it…when I give it full throttle it loses power and will stall unless I release the pedal…what do you recommend
I have a Tomberlin 150 Crossfire with a Howhit engine. It idles great but when I try to accelerate it backfires and sputters. I have changed spark plug,drained fuel,cleaned carburetor. Can you help me with info.
Cleaned my carb on gy6 150 and now back fires out of it won’t start when it does it backfires and dies
cleaned my gy6 carb on my atv will crank just fine on idle when pushing throttle more than 1/3 of the way engine bogs down and wants to die if i let go of throttle it will idle fine any help would be awsome