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INSTALLING THE BDX GY6 SWAP HARNESS FOR HONDA RUCKUS [5,670 views]
 
A picture guide outlining the procedure for installing this upgrade.
Installing The BDX GY6 Swap Harness For Honda Ruckus
[5,670 views - 1 comments - Rating 5/5 ***** ]

Installing the BDX Plug-n-Play harness for Honda Ruckus GY6 Swaps is pretty straight forward. If this is your first time installing a swap harness and your are looking to install other electrical modifications along with the harness (aftermarket handlebar controls, buttons, headlights, accessories, etc), we recommend installing the harness first, before performing any other electrical modification to the bike. This will reduce the complexity of troubleshooting any installation issues.

It's best to mount the harness physically in place before attempting to make all of the connections. If you follow the steps in this guide as shown, you'll find that just about all of the connectors find themselves in the appropriate location with their mate.

For additional assistance or clarifications, please let us know in the comments section at the bottom of this picture guide.

BDX GY6 Swap Harness

As it arrives: After installation:
1. Start with a stripped down battery cage.
Remove all wiring except the handlebar controls. Press on the included sticky pads as shown. Make sure you bias the pads on the black box to the left side.
2. Route the chassis section.
Start at the rear and connect your 5 tail light wires. Route the section along the RIGHT-hand side of the bike.
3. Route the starter cable section.
Route the starter cables along the LEFT-hand side of the bike. Position it so that the charger port (pictured below) ends right at the large frame bolt. This will place it directly under the utility port in the stock floorboard for easy access whenever you need to top off the charge on the battery.
Take note of the cable routing at both ends of the starter and ground cables. Connect the black ground cable directly to a bolt on the engine within reach. Torque the bolt back down to 70 inch/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench in this range, make sure you don't use a valve cover bolt - you don't want to end up stripping one of those.
4. Connect the starter.
Your starter should have come with it's own cable lead attached. It's a weakling, fortunately we're not going to use it. Go ahead and use a phillips screwdriver to remove the cable. Keep the the screw. Now use some clippers to cut the end as shown. Keep the tip, throw the wire in the recycle heap. Use the tip and screw to attach the red cable to the starter.
Slide the boot into place.
This strap routes from this bolt, directly to the negative side (terminal) of the battery.
Now go ahead and bolt down the large black wire from the starter section.
5. Mount the solenoid.
The harness comes with some nifty rubber insulated clamps. Go ahead and grab one of those clamps from the package for our next steps. Look into the hardware bag included with the kit and grab the longer bolt. Use the bolt at the location in the next three pictures.
Use the clamp as shown, and fasten it to our new bolt with one of the nuts included in the hardware bag.
6. Mount the resistor from the original harness.
Mount the resistor here using one of the smallest bolts from the hardware pack. You may have to use the second nut from the bag as a spacer if the bolt is too long.

7. Mount the fuse panel and relay section.
The fuse panel uses two different sizes of bolts. The top bolt is the smallest in the hardware pack. The bottom bolt is the medium-sized bolt from the pack (14mm long) Install the main relay (top center of picture) to the sticky pads, mini fuse holder (to the right of the main relay). You'll notice a thick orange wire with mesh wrap. This wire goes to a large fuse holder and large golden colored fuse. Route and mount these as shown below in the picture.
Attach the remaining orange fuse wire to the solenoid post as shown. Make sure you attach it to the side of the solenoid exactly as shown in the picture. Don't tighten this down yet though, as you'll attach your battery strap assembly to this post in the next step.
Grab the battery strap assembly and attach it to the solenoid, and ignition switch. Now you can tighten down the nut on the solenoid post.
Connect the 2-pin male from the battery strap into the 2-pin female from the main relay/fusepanel section.
8. Mount the main control section.
Grab the main control section and place the clamp on it exactly as shown. Both sides of the clamp are not the same. You'll notice that the clamp has one straight edge, and one that is curved and bent to match up with the other. You should have the straight side facing you when looking at the assemble like below. This is important.
Now take the three bundles in the picture below and bend them down and away from the rest of the wires. There are two greens and a black connector. These three are for the rectifier and will stay down here. (There is a white connector in the picture too, but that is from the solenoid and not part of this step)
With those three out of the way, slide the rest of the wires up through the cage as shown.
Route the connections shown below underneath the bottom section of the cage, and through the middle to the fuse panel. Also, secure the green and black wires with ring terminals to the upper bolt of he fuse panel. The black wire comes from the starter cable section.
Make sure that all of the connections reach above the top of the cage. This is to make connecting them easier. Also, take note of the 4-pin white connector at the top right of the picture - connect these now. The male comes from the battery strap section, and the female is the only 4-pin white coming from the main control section.
The rest of the connections should be self-explanatory, but if you need any help here please let us know. You can ignore the wires labeled "Auxiliary Lighting" those are completely optional and can be skipped.
By now you're surely wondering what to do with the black 2-pin plug here. Keep in mind where this is and we'll come back to it in later steps.
Auxiliary Lighting (Optional)
Your new harness is pre-wired for lighting accessories, you can install front halos, LEDs, or anything else that runs 12 volts. We recommend skipping this step for now even if you have an accessory to install.

The three wires (red, yellow, white) in the picture below are placed there for you to connect your own switch to control the aux lighting circuit. You have two options to power the circuit: either from the wire wire or the red wire. The red wire provides constant 12v power, as long as the keyswitch is ON. The white wire will only provide power while the main headlights are set on low-beam. The yellow wire is the output wire, and runs directly to the front of the bike to power your lights/accessories.
An optional handlebar switch can be used to manually control power to your extra lighting. We use the single button switch from TrailTech.


9. Connecting everything else!
Right now you should have the right-side of he control section still hanging.
Using a large ziptie, secure these two bundles to the battery cage. Don't tighten the ziptie too much, so you can adjust later if needed.
Connect the two connectors from the chassis section to the control section. Then connect the fuel sensor to the red plug in the harness.
Fuel sensor plug doesn't match?
If your orginal fuel sensor plug is grey, it will not directly plug into the BDX harness. We use the more common red 3-pin plug.

We intend to order the mating plug for your sensor when we place our next order with the supplier. Since we order connectors by the tens of thousands (due to minimum quantity requirements), this will take a little time.

Please contact us if you have the grey sensor plug, we will send you a mating red 3-pin plug to adapt your sensor to be compatible with the harness. The plug will come in the form of a kit, with crimp-on splice connections and adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing to seal the connection.

Do you remember the black rectangular box to which you attached the main relay in earlier steps? Find the 6-pin black connector coming from that box and connect it to the black 6-pin female connector on the harness. (Note: the picture below shows the bundle having 3 wires. Earlier BDX harnesses came with all 6 wires in this plug - some of which do nothing so we removed them)
As shown below, the high-beam indicator plugs into the black 2-pin connector coming from the main harness. The fuel level indicator light plugs into the 2-pin connector coming from the black box that we've mounted our relays to.
Stator and Rectifier Instructions
The BDX harness is designed to accept the common varieties of 6, 8, and 11 pole electrical systems without any additional wiring or modification. Please pay careful attentions to these guidelines when selecing a stator/rectifier for your swap:

* You MUST use a rectifier which matches your stator.
* Do not mix 6 or 8 pole rectifiers with 11-pole stators, and viceversa.
* Do not install two rectifiers at the same time.

Does your engine have a 6 or 8 pole stator?
Connect your rectifier to the BLACK 4-pin plug in the next picture below. The two green plugs in the picture are to be left disconnected.

Does your engine have a 11 pole upgrade stator?
Connect your rectifier to the GREEN 4-pin and 3-pin plugs in the next picture below. The black plug in the picture is to be left disconnected.

Mount your rectifier to the cage using the forward bolt.
The headlight connections aren't covered in this guide, but you can install your headlights now and plug them into the last black 6-pin connector at the front of the battery box.
Installing your addons
There are two 9-pin plugs in the center of the main control harness meant to support a wide veriaty of plug-n-play system upgrades. The blue plug allows different modules to be installed to control the behavior of the headlights. The red plug does the same, but allows for swapping in modules which control CDI ignition function.

Depending on which addons you selected when purchasing the harness, your addon may be as simple as a plug for a switch, or it may be a more complex control system to handle the headlight, charging, and/or ignition systems.

To install your addons, simply plug them into their respectively color coded connetors, and secure the module appropriately.


10. The last connections
The last thing to do is to finish connecting the bundles in the middle of the main control section.

Turn signal relay: Yellow and grey wires, two pin blue connector. This plug comes with an adaptor for the original Ruckus turn signal relay. If you wish to use a different type of relay, other adaptors can be made for the one you wish to use.

Resistor: Blue and red wires, two pin white or black connector.

2-pin black connector from the starter cable section: Connects to the main section by the black and dark brown wires, two pin black connector.


Your harness should now look like this.
Just plug in your headlights and front turn signals, and you should be ready to roll. Please contact us if you need any further assistance.
Installing your other accessories (GPS, Phone, etc)
The 6th fuse slot located at the bottom of the fuse panel is available for you to easily install your own 12v accessories. We even include a 5amp fuse for you!


This article has been downloaded 5,670 times
1 comments about this article:
Poster #1 [06/13/13] Rating 5/5 *****
TOo bad there is no swap harness for Honda Metropolitan with GY6. I have a GY6 and a Metropolitan. How hard is it to use this harness to get a GY6 in the Met? I was thinking of also using a RUckus rear end on my metropolitan to fit the GY6 using the BDX mount.
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